Nicholas J. Carroll - The Adventure and Film Blog

17 March 2009

 

Packing Out - Canyon Section

Tomorrow morning, I will hop on the bus with my coursemates and make the day and a half drive down to southern Utah to begin our 30-day Canyon Section. We'll return on April 18th.

We spent all of yesterday in classes and meetings with many of NOLS' key departments and their leaders, including meeting with the Executive Director, Human Resources, Environmental Policy, Risk Management, NOLS Pro (professional development services), and a luncheon with many employees from both NOLS Rocky Mountain and the NOLS International Branch. As a result of all that, I met one of the interns working in the video department, and after sharing my love and passion for video and my desire to have a camera in the field, he arranged for NOLS to loan me one of their cameras for this section. Since it's a small digital media video camera, it can replace my still camera in my pack and won't even add much extra weight, but will allow me to get footage that NOLS and I can share. It also means the content from my canyon section here will be even richer than the photos I've already been able to get.

Today we packed up everything we need for the section in packs, including rations (and my extra food, thank goodness!). My pack, even with extra food and a few little extras I'll probably be able to eliminate, weighs in at 45 lbs, a respectably low weight for the section. Every day, it should get at least 2 lbs lighter, as well! Woohoo!

Our canyon section will bring us to southern Utah Canyonland, exploring natural and human history in areas such as the Mancos Mesa, Gravel & Long Canyons, and the Dark Canyon area. I've included here some Google Maps snapshots to give you a peek at what the terrain in those areas is like, and so you can see the general progression of the course.

View Larger Map

View Larger Map

View Larger Map
When I return on April 18th, after some time catching up on things, I'll be sure to get another section recap blog up before I head out to our climbing section at Split Rock and Sinks Canyon.

Your Adventurer,
Nick

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Log - Winter Section

*Apologies for the MASSIVE amount of typos in this post before. It was VERY late here in Wyoming, so I was tired typing. Most are fixed now!*

Never, ever go winter camping. That is, unless you're willing to get lots of advice from your instructors/guides/more experienced friends, relate your challenging experience with your campmates, and stick it out until you really get the hang of thriving out in the winter wilderness.

Below are many entries, almost all from the second ration period of my 20 day travels in the southern Wind River Mountains, some are highlights from my log, some are comments on the experience from now. Some pictures are here, but scroll to the bottom of this entry for a link to an album including more select shots from the section.


26 Feb 09 - Day "2" Winter

"'Normal people don't do this.' - Right Reverend Robby Ripcord, First Church of the Open Slopes



I'm currently huddled in my sleeping bag just before 7AM on the trail near Christina Lake [just inside the Wilderness Boundary]. Two hard days or cross country skiing and two of the most stressful nights of my life got me and our group here. Nothing of this journey is familiar.

Every step, every piece is a new skill I must learn to stay alive, warm, comfortable, active, and healthy. I'll even have to learn how to write better in the cold. Cooking gives me some comfort, I'm starting to get a hold of the system and can now start to get creative with meals. More entries later, wake-up time approaches...."

3 March 09 - Day 7 Winter - Weather: -At 7:30AM -4 deg C, overcast, winds from N and S, moderate gusting. -In saddle by Cony Mountain-

"These "tissue recovery days" are really nice. Not only can I get down to paper all these observations, but it's especially nice to stay in bed most of the day, even out here. I do hope we'll get one or two more of these to hep break up the remaining section days into emotionally (and physically!!!) manageable chunks. This section is undoubtedly the most challenging & overall uncomfortable thing I've ever done. I find it often difficult to believe I signed up for this voluntarily. It does help to have days like this. It also helps to know that the semester will go on to increasingly amicable camping situations. After the cold, hash, frustrating conditions in winter, we'll be in the warmer canyons, moving in tents [& sleeping under the stars]. After that, base camping in the climbing section, an idea that seems positively posh compared to now. Here's to looking forward to that!"

4 March 09 - Day 8 Winter - Weather: -At 6:45AM -5 deg C, overcast, winds from NW, SW, E, moderate gusting. By night, strong gusting from N & moderate gusting from...everywhere! -Ration cache retrieval day, back in saddle-

"Overall a good productive day today w/some challenging spots. Coyotes had found our cache and made a mess of ours & a four-person group's rations. The four-person team is missing a lot. Then there was the harsh weather [strong winds in clearings during travel to cache location] ...made it rough to climb the ~800 ft on ~4 miles of trail back to the saddle...The good news? New food! Griffen made a bangin' pasta & veggie dish w/a peanut sauce. Also: new tent group! Jill, Griffen, and I are a new three-person group, and things are already great...the positive attitudes of these two are happily infectious. More tomorrow..."

5 March 09 - Day 9 Winter - Weather: -At 7:00AM -12.5 deg C, overcast, winds from N-NW, blowing storm across the saddle to the SE. By night, snow had blown over and the skies began to clear, moon overhead a day or so past half-waxing. Should be at least mostly cloudy by tomorrow morning. -Still in saddle by Cony Mtn (woot!)-

"...some avalanche tranceiver practice & coaching [picture in album, in the saddle with Cony Mountain in the background] was a great thing....my [mid-course evaluation] talk with Clair was great, too, amazing to see all the things the instructor team had noticed about my progress....I'm reminded of what Rev. Robby said: 'Normal people don't do this.' Damn right."

6 March 09 - Day 10 Winter - Weather: -At 7:15AM -15 deg C, partly couldy, mostly clear, winds from N & NW, gusting, which made the -15 degree morning temp seem even colder. At 11AM near Roaring Fork Valley, temp had increased to -11 deg C. -Day tours to Silas Canyon or ridge above Roaring Fork-

"While one group made their way to the W towards Silas Canyon for some exploration & snowpack study, my group went NW to try to find a suitable new campground somewhere in in or near the Roaring Fork region. [We] broke trail along & over ridges in what turned out to be a fruitless search for passable trail past Boulder Lake. Even our eventual exit from the Wilderness will be a challenge, finding a way to minimize boulder hopping with sleds as we make our way. We'll see what the I-team decides, but I'll bet we spend a few days camped in Silas Canyon before heading toward exit on the 14th. For today, I'm glad we got some good views and exercise at a relaxed pace, and am enjoying some early rest & hot drink. More tomorrow!"

7 March 09 - Day 11 Winter - Weather: -At 6:30AM -15 deg C, clear. At 7:30AM -10 deg C, clear. Occasional mild gusting winds from N-NW -Ridge summit to W-

"Pit digging!

Test Pit Results [for those that understand them!]:
-Dug 1m20cm on 29 degree slope.
-Ski penetration 2 cm. Boot penetration 6 cm.
-@0-10cm, fist (F) hardness, .5mm flakes, round.
-@10-15cm, four finger (4F) hardness, .5mm flakes, round/groupel
-@15-25cm, F, 1 mm, round
-@25-40cm, 4F, .5mm, groupel?
-@40-50cm, F, .5mm, round, with shovel shear with high energy (STHQ1) @45cm and compression test breaking using strikes with whole arm and snow barely collapsing (CTHQ3) @50cm.
-@50-80cm, 4f, 1.5mm, facets, STMQ2 @75cm.
-@80-120cm(ground), one finger hardness (1F), 1.75mm, facets, shovel shear at base (STN@120cm), compression test at base (CTN@120cm)
-Rutschblock Test had no failures (RB7). [This meant Jill skiing out on a big, isolated section of snow, flexing her knees, jumping once, again, then three times in the middle of the block, all without the snowpack moving at all.
[Not the most interesting pit ever, but I know how to do one now!]

....Today=great. Wonderful weather. Couldn't ask for a better day for today's activities. The whole group went to the summit of the peak to the W, up ~920ft to 11,522 ft. Beautiful view; got 360 degree view photos, portraits, and group shots. Didn't join the group going out on the ridge--my right foot was very cold, so I joined the descent, found a sweet ski spot without skins down the last third. Also got a great opportunity to head back out w/Erin [an instructor] and Jill for a few hours to learn test pits. Moving to Silas Canyon camp tomorrow, more when I can.

Sun 8 March 09 - Day 12 Winter - DST begins - Weather: -At 7:45AM -15 deg C, overcast. At 8:30AM -13 deg C, overcast. Mild to moderate gusting from N-NW, snow falling rapidly. -Moved from saddle to drainage in bottom of Silas Canyon-

Mon 9 March 09 - Day 13 Winter - Weather: -At 7:45AM -15 deg C, overcast. At 9:00AM -9 deg C, overcast. Mild to moderate gusting from S-SW, snow falling rapidly. Though skies had mostly cleared by bedtime last night, we woke this morning to ~25cm of new champagne snow on the ground. By now (@2:45PM) we have around 50cm of snow with maybe 35cm more to come today....-Big snowfall = scouting pass instead of heading out to Atlantic Canyon-

"Beautiful, snowy landscape today. Have some shots from low & high on our way to scout out the pass connecting Silas Canyon & Atlantic Canyon....I'm feeling tired & worn out. I feel as if the fact that I've been at a sustained effort for two weeks is finally hitting me. I also feel like I'm not getting enough food. I'll have to remember that two pounds per day is just not enough for me to feel fed & energetic. Note to self: BRING MORE CLIF BARS! They are GREAT."

Tues 10 March 09 - Day 14 Winter - Weather: -At 9:00AM -18.5 deg C, overcast. Moderate gusting from SW. By nightfall, winds from NE were moderate to strong gusts, clear skies. Total snowfall was between 55-65cm. Around 5cm fell today in larger, denser, sparser flakes. -Last day in Silas Canyon camp.-

"Another rest/choose your own adventure day. We woke to a COLD morning, and I was grateful to get right back to bed soon after the 9:30AM check-in. Jill went off with some others on an early departure ski tour towards some slopes near Tomahawk Lake, and Giffen, after some morning pit digging, came and joined me in the shelter, bringing Kelly along, and we all discussed [nature] observations & read books....We all have made extra warmth & dryness precautions for tonight, as it is probably going to be our coldest yet, around -25 deg C when we wake up, with clear skies. Beginning exit move tomorrow!"

Weds 11 March 09 - Day 15 Winter - Weather: -At 7:30AM -9.5 deg C, clear. Mild wind from W-SW in morning, otherwise still, except moderate winds in clearings during travel. -Moved from Silas Canyon camp to old Quigloos above Christina Lake.-

"[Starting tomorrow] we have three days to cover about 16 miles, meaning we'll cover a little over five miles each day, mostly rough flat-tracking, slowly sloping off in elevation. We'll make it to the roadhead by night on the 14th, and be picked up at 9AM the next morning."

Thurs 12 March 09 - Day 16 Winter - Weather: -At 7:30AM -20 deg C, clear. At 8:30AM -17 deg C, clear. No wind! -Moved from old Quigloos around 4.5 miles along snowmobile trail past Wilderness Boundary.-

"Simple travel day today, on our way out via the snowmobile trail. Really lovely day, set into camp early, around 2:15PM....Low on food, but we'll be good enough for these few days, I think...."

Fri 13 March 09 - Day 17 Winter - Weather: -At 7:15AM -10 deg C, clear. No wind. -Mom's birthday today! Moved ~4.5 miles along broken snowmobile trail to Greniere Meadow-

"Warm sunny day with broken trail meant a very quick travel day moving about 4.5 miles...from 11AM-1PM....many of us are now sitting out in the meadow in the sun, filling out evaluations, journaling, and chatting about the days ahead. We're definitely all looking forward to our soon return to Lander. Almost done with winter!"

Sat 14 March 09 & Sun March 09 - Day 18 & Exit

I woke on the morning of the 14th and had two unusual experiences. First, I got to poop in a toilet. Though this is not a novel thing to those of you living daily with restrooms, even the outdoor toilet near our campsite was a dear luxury. Secondly, I got to catch the sunrise, a lovely advantage to DST being in effect.

Our last day of travel, though our farthest exit travel day, was not too rough and we still arrived at our last camp fairly early. Low on food, each group pooled resources in a potluck dinner, with each cook serving every member of the expedition.

The last night of the winter section includes the Dachron Challenge, a voluntary challenge set by our lead instructor to spend the whole night without tent or sleeping bag. Though some of my coursemates built solo shelters, fires, or dug out group spots to layer in, I opted a solo trench away from all the other members of the group. Though I did make it through the night, completing the challenge, I did not sleep one moment. Plenty of time for me to commune with the almost-full waning moon...

We're back in Lander, WY now, getting some classes, meetings, fun time, and extremely comfortable bed rest before heading out Wednesday morning to southern Utah for our 30-day canyon section. I'm very, very excited, and feel like I'll really be able to excel. Some brief details on that tomorrow night, I hope, otherwise, I'll blog when I'm in town next, roughly April 19th...

Your Adventurer,
Nick
For entire gallery for this and other sections, CLICK HERE!

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